Anthony Bourdain spoke highly of his detractors Wednesday night during a roast at Le Bernardin for GQ food critic Alan Richman, who celebrated 25 years at the men’s magazine. Bourdain — who had a chapter in his book, “Medium Raw,” titled “Alan Richman is a douchebag” — admired the writer, telling us: “You have to respect an archenemy who invites you into his house to have at him.” Of Sandra Lee, Gov. Cuomo’s girlfriend whom Bourdain once characterized as “low-hanging fruit,” he said, “I don’t think much of her cooking, but a tough lady . . . impressive, and I think, scary woman.” He added with a laugh, “I don’t want to get audited.” Bourdain had few words for his worst nemesis, Paula Deen, but snipped about Deen fans who wrote him hate mail: “Most of them couldn’t spell her last name. It’s only four letters in it. It’s scary. I’ve saved some of the mail in case I go missing.” Bourdain, along with Le Bernardin chef Eric Ripert, David Chang, Daniel Boulud, former New York Times food critics Frank Bruni and Sam Sifton, Richman’s ex-wife and Wall Street Journal wine columnist Lettie Teague, and Four Seasons restaurant co-owner Julian Niccolini, all cracked wise about the GQ writer. Bourdain riffed on stage: “He said the steaks at Les Halles were as tough as Hulk Hogan’s foreskin, which sort of begs the question, ‘How do you know?’ ” A spicy Boulud added: “You’ve been writing as long as I’ve been cooking, but when are you going to get good at it?” And Chang put in: “He’s the only person that went to the Vietnam War and speaks of it fondly.”