ISCHIA, ITALY — Regina Isabella. Not just a beautiful name. A glorious hotel.
At the crossroads of Mediterranean civilization, Ischia was inhabited 7,000 years ago. Centuries later the Greeks discovered this island off Italy’s coast. What they were looking for, who knows? Maybe how to shore up the prehistoric drachma.
They found, instead, hot springs. Healing waters.
Bourbon’s Queen Maria Isabella, born 1789, wed at 13 in nearby Naples to French-Bourbon King Ferdinand’s son, came for the magical thermal waters. Maybe she was dunking to help fertile Ferdie. After 12 children, the hot springs got named for her.
Along came Angelo Rizzoli of the publishing Rizzolis. Loving this serene fishing village on the shores of the sea, a puff away from Mount Vesuvius, amongst the Island of Health’s rocks, crooks, grottoes and caves, he built Albergo della Regina Isabella, centerpiece of today’s Ischia.
With properties from volcanos, 29 hot springs, healing waters, 103 sources of mud, three restaurants, Michelin-starred chef, four swimming pools, private beach, beauty center, mild climate, gym, health spa that boasts medical treatment, thalassotherapy, oxygen based rejuvenation — along came the rich and pampered.
Mme Curie was an early visitor.
Then came Elizabeth Taylor/Richard Burton’s escape from the rigors of doing “Cleopatra” in Rome as well as the vigors of Doing It everywhere. From their terrace, a cranky Elizabeth threw the clothes of a naked Richard into the sea.
The locals claim he found something to wear and, as she was crying, “Burton, Burton, who’s got the Burton?” he lumbered into town, where for a make-up gift be bought tizzy Lizzie a diamond ring.
Bad Boy Burton’s gone. But I’ve been hunting that jeweler ever since.
Other hotel stories exist. Like when a famous designer checked into his boyfriend before he checked into the room. Or the Hollywood actress who took off her bra while the bellboy took up her bag. Or the German diva who trashed her suite, slashed the drapes, smashed the furniture then cashed in a half-inch of euros to pay for it.
And there’s the US superstar who sends directives ahead. It’s the guillotine if you make eye contact.
Understand, this didn’t happen at this particular hotel. However, if you’re really nice to me and don’t send me your usual nasty letter that begins “Dear Stupid,” I might tell you who, what, where and when.
Ischia was the summer residence of Italian film director Luchino Visconti. Then the Regina Isabella housed Chaplin, Callas, Gable, Boyer, Lollobrigida, Agnelli, Audrey Hepburn, Katharine Hepburn, Dr. Christiaan Barnard, European royalty.
Then the town’s annual film festival begat the celebrity pilgrimage. Gwyneth, Vanessa, Jude, Sting, Valentino, Belafonte, Bisset, Bacharach, Bocelli, Tucci, Coppola, Laura Dern, Diane Kruger, Val Kilmer, Eva Herzigova, Ralph Fiennes, Peter Fonda, Danny Glover, Oliver Stone, Hilary Swank, Naomi Watts.
Even Jean-Claude Van Damme, Franco Nero, Elsa Martinelli, Ugo Tognazzi, Christoph Waltz and Rosario Dawson.
Here is where Matt Damon filmed the movie, “The Talented Mr. Ripley.”
This is the island where Germany’s Angela Merkel stays for replenishment and rest. In the past, she’s come simply. No entourage. No guards. In future, probably no phones.
Even the creatures here are welcoming.
A white dove left one terrace, sweetly walked into the guest’s room and remained there.
Public Relations exec Geoffrey Weill found his new fine feathered friend sitting on the bureau alongside a Panama hat.
This heaven is no quickie weekend hideaway.
Get to JFK, fly to Rome, bus at Fiumicino Airport to the smaller plane to Naples, bus upon arrival to the luggage carousel, then a car to the boat to a car to the hotel.
The fastest way to get to Ischia is to be born here.
Hey, if Rome wasn’t built in a day, neither was paradise.
There’s horseback riding, golf, mountain hiking, good shopping, great dining, excellent service.
The season’s closing feast featured Roederer Champagne plus Louis Roederer himself pouring the Cristal. Also, one course was beef under a black-and-white-squares chessboard. The chess pieces were puff pastry.
Go find that at a deli takeout.
Only in Ischia, kids, only in Ischia.