Esquire critic John Mariani skewers Babbo co-owner Joe Bastianich as “vile” and “duplicitous” — and says he won’t be dining in his restaurants again — in response to Bastianich’s memoir, “Restaurant Man.” Mariani says Bastianich calls him in the tome a “self-righteous, condescending p – – – k” who’s “not important” and who “sliced [my] balls off . . . and let them bleed from my crotch” with a negative comment made decades ago at his restaurant Becco. “I am astonished at what I have read about me in your new book,” Mariani writes to Bastianich in a letter obtained by Page Six. “You have so completely warped the truth to suit what are clearly your own insecurities . . . Your characterization of me — in language that permeates the book in what seems an attempt to out-Bourdain [Anthony] Bourdain and must appall your mother [Lidia] — is so distant from what you have, obviously and hypocritically, led me to believe all these years as to defy understanding.” Mariani says he doesn’t recall the Becco dressing-down, and he’s been a Bastianich cheerleader for years, even putting him in Esquire’s “Hall of Fame.” “Your characterization of me . . . is not just vile but so duplicitous that it’s difficult to imagine you are truly the son of your ever cordial, ever civilized parents,” Mariani writes. “You obviously do lack the balls ever to have said any of this to my face in the past 20 years.”